We took a few days at Christmas to get away and reconnect as a family. It seems like ages since summer when we were together last. There is always a lot to catch up on and sometimes a change of scenery is good. We immediately loved the fast pace of Hanoi. It is everything that Taipei isn't. Loud and colorful, full of culture. Taiwan often feels very milk-toast. We've discussed why this is and have a few thoughts, but at the same time it is a mystery.
Food was one of the fun things about Vietnam. Street food, restaurant food, and international food! Just after we arrived we went out to look for our first meal. We must have looked rather lost because a man and his wife stopped us and offered help - in perfect English. We started walking and talking with them and learned that he was from Hanoi but had moved to the U.S. years ago. He has returned to Vietnam several times, but this was his wife's first visit. They were so excited to show us their favorite restaurant in the area, and we were not disappointed. We couldn't have done as well even after several days in town. He showed us what to order and then disappeared to catch his own flight home. You can't visit Vietnam without having a bowl of local Pho! Later in the week we found a fabulous restaurant called "Pho Ten" where we had amazing bowls of Pho.
The streets were crazy busy. I've never been in traffic quiet like this. Our first clue was the ride from the airport into town. We were on a highway of sorts. I noticed that everyone was driving in their lane except our driver. He drove straight down the dotted line. I couldn't understand it. When we got off the highway mopeds and bicycles added to the mix of cars and busses. I've gotten used to mopeds here in Taiwan, but this was a whole other level of insanity. Taiwan is a very rule adhering country and very safety conscious. People wear helmets. I've never seen more than 3 on a moped here. There is a very orderly way of driving and following traffic signals. In Hanoi, all of that goes out the window. Helmets seem to be an option, we saw several mopeds with 5 riders, and all sorts of goods are carried. There is a noticeable lack of street signals and stop signs. Intersections are simply not labeled and all people move forward, simply weaving their way through the jam of cars to get to the other side. Yet it worked. It was fun to sit on a balcony above an intersection and just watch it all work out.
Shopping was loads of fun. People were selling things right off their bicycles as they pushed them through the crowds. The Old Quarter consisted of street after street of tourist shop, selling local handicrafts. I now have a nice row of lantern hanging from our bedroom ceiling adding a spark of fun!
The architecture adds color to the city as well. The style is considered French, but I would call it a unique style, specific to Vietnam. Houses are narrow and tall. Typically one family owns a house with multiple generations occupying it. The French influence is seen in the bright colors along the landscape, porches on the facade, decorative - but functional - shutters, and an overall neoclassical feel.
Vietnam is a Communist county. It was evident from the moment we landed and were waiting for our visas to be processed at the airport. It took me by complete surprise. Yes, I knew Vietnam was communist, but I did not expect the similarities to Russia. Over and over I was amazed at the little nuances I picked up on that were the same. This memorial statue could have been in any park in Moscow. The blocky stylizing of the figures is exactly the same. We were surprised at the number of people dressed in old style or formal style military clothing. This sense of nationalism in dress is similar to what I saw in Moscow, especially in the younger generation on national holidays. They have a Ho Chi Minh mausoleum which is reminiscent of Lenin's mausoleum in Red Square. We arrived planing on viewing the preserved body, just as we had in Moscow. We were disappointed that it wasn't open the day we were there. We were hoping to check another creepy dictator experience off our list. From what I read, Ho Chi Minh's body is sent to Moscow every year for embalming inspection.
The Water Puppet Theater was a unique experience. This form of theater is only performed in Vietnam. The puppet masters are behind a backdrop where the stage is a pool of water. The puppets emerge from the water, splashing and swimming around. The addition of sparklers created fire from the dragons and an interesting smoky atmosphere for parts of the play. Live music accompanied the performance. The local instruments created an eerie ancient oriental atmosphere.
Sadly, I know very little about the war in Vietnam. I know it was controversial and still has an air of anger associated with it. The Hoa Lo Prison is a vast complex built by the French in 1896. It was intended to house around 450 inmates, but over 2,000 Vietnamese political prisoners were held there by the French. Conditions were deplorable. Prisoners were tortured and many were executed. The prison has become a symbol of colonist exploitation that the French used in Vietnam. The prison was used by Vietnam during the Vietnam war to house American POW's who nicknamed it the "Hanoi Hilton." This is where John McCain was imprisoned in the late 1960's.
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